When floating around Bayswater, the local wanderer is spoilt for choice amongst shiny and exciting restaurants and bars keen to prove their worth. Indeed, we've wasted many hours in many different spots, but no matter where else we wander off to, we always make sure to drop by the Commander.

The cool low lighting and 'North American inspired' open plan dining area blends neatly with the older pub features - remnants of a past life. If you could eat with your eyes, you'd be full by the time you reach your table.

Whether you're here for just a drink in their crowded market garden or to sit down and enjoy the fresh fish or meaty delights, you're unlikely to be disappointed with what's on offer.

The cocktails are wide ranging, tasty and made with careful adoration by the bar tenders. They also have an excellent selection of wine, available by the carafe, which will keep you in that warm fuzzy feeling where you think your chat is far better than it actually is. Perhaps it is a good idea to get something to eat...

No fear - the food here is worthy of some attention with exotic meats on offer (crocodile spring rolls and springbok steaks not being the normal chow on offer this side of the hemisphere) as well as fresh fish, excellent steaks and burgers. If you're in the mood, oysters are readily available too. Add in a vat of skin-on fat chips and you'll be pleasantly stuffed after any visit to the Commander for dinner.

Regulars at the Commander were permitted to check the freshness of their forthcoming meal

If you're here during the day, then the Commander opens its deli doors letting people purchase ingredients to cook at home or pick the perfect slab of meat and handing it over to the chef to cook it to specifications. It couldn't be simpler.

The Commander could be a prototype for pub refurbishment and with results this good, we can only encourage it.